gerbert where ya from? i was born in johannesburg

To Milt.

Thanks. Will try that. Hopefully it works.
Will older NVIDIA drivers override newer ones though? Or is it like DirectX where the new version always remains?

To Dean S.
I live in Pretoria. Where you now?

Oh yeah.
Forgot to mention. I'm running XP, friend's PC is running Windows 2000.
Will the same drivers - per game - still apply?

Win2000 and WinXP both use the same core, so the drivers for one should work in the other.

But I'm not so sure about the nVidea drivers though... I just don't know if you have to use the 'Detonator Destroyer' thing each time you try to change drivers with a GeForce card.

Can anybody help us out here???

I don't know where to post this- but I have a question- I have a a7n266-vm and I paired it with a Barton 2600XP-M. Its currently running on a 133fsb. I had to pin mod it using the guide @ http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?/html/workshop/pinmod/amd_pinmod.html
since the multis on the chip are unlocked. Its running at 16.5x133@1.6 volts now (2200mhz). My question is does anyone here no either how to

a) mod the a7n266-vm to feed the chip a set voltage
or
b) pin mod the chip to feed the chip 1.7 volts without blowing the top bridges on the CPU. CPU's stock voltage is 1.45, and when I try any of the voltage mods on that website I get either 2 voltages- 1.6 or 1.8

@1.8 volts I can get the board up to 2625(14.5x181) or 2660(20x133) but any faster then that the machine crashes due to memory errors while booting up, have to pull battery just to get it to restart- (I've tried 4 different sticks off DDR400, DDR333) Does anyone know why? here is the current specs

a7n266-vm/aa rev 1.05 Bios 1.007
Barton 2600 XP-M @ 2200mhz(133x16.5@1.6 volts)(board default)
Current Memory: Generic PC-266
32x CD-Drive Sony U771
Western Digital 40gig 7200rpm Drive (model wd400bb-00dea0)
Thermal Integration TI-A8736N (cheap heatsink)
Windows XP pro. SP 1

Since your XP-M 2600+ Barton is designed to run at 15.0x133MHz = 2000 MHz and you have it cranked to 14.5x181 = 2625 MHz, I'd guess that you've got all that you are going to get from that CPU @ 1.8v VCore.
If you want more than that, you'll need more VCore and/or better cooling... i.e. H2O

I can't tell you exactly how to use the wire-trick to get 1.70 volts, but I CAN tell you how to ADD 0.20 volts to whatever the 'stock' voltage is on ALMOST any CPU... i.e. 1.5v + 0.20 = 1.70v, or 1.6v + 0.20 = 1.80v, or 1.65v + 0.20 = 1.85v
So it SHOULD work to give you 1.45 + 0.20 = 1.65v, but because ALL BUT ONE of your CPU bridges are closed at the factory, you MAY need to cut some of them... easy enough to do with an exacto knife.
You only need one wire to add 0.20v... put it in this hole...
[IMG]http://img36.photobucket.com/albums/v109/miltie/Wire-Trick_-_1.jpg[/IMG]

To my knowledge there is no easy way to 'mod' the voltage output on our A7N266-VM.

One thing I have found with mine is that with a single stick of good PC2700 memory (Crucial) I can get 181 MHz, but with 2 identical sticks my max FSB drops to ~150 MHz

Milt.

Thanks a lot.
Getting different drivers seems to have worked. NVIDIA 6.0.7.2 solved the crash.
It did take a few trials though... I had to go through about 10 drivers before I got one that worked. Was really close to giving up on the whole idea.

Hey thanks Milt, I tried the wire trick, but I had to cut the bridges to make it work *darn*. Oh well, always good to learn a new trick- Thank you very much for your time- Now I have a new minor quesiton-

Where is the case temp taken on the motherboard? Is that northbridge? Mine is running at 48 now- Faster I push it, the higher that number goes- And how accurate are those temps anyway?

I honestly can't find any Thermistor (temp sensor), on mine... they are usually a little green thingy, about the size of a wooden match head... but I don't see any on mine.

That 48° Celsius that you are reading is not your System temp, that's your CPU temp... where are you reading that?
Compare it with the temps shown in your CMOS to know which is which.

What speed are you running your system at now?

Hey Milt,

I'm running at 2421(18x135) @ 1.65 volts. (wish I had better memory) I am using MBM5 to get my temp readings, My CPU reading is 45 degrees underload with a cheap heatsink and Artic Silver 5.(need a better one) The case temp was at 48-49 Until I placed a fan blowing on my northbridge(?) now its down to 36. Going to install a Iceberq Vantec Copper Chipset cooler on it now. Then I'll know for sure... btw- These Mobile Bartons really sing on these under-rated motherboards! also I found with that fan blowing on the northbridge, I can break the 2650 barrier on these board with a my best heatsink(sp-97) Made it into windows at 2715(15x181) @ 1.8 volts. To much voltage for me to be comfortable

If your 'System Temp' was actually 48°C, then your CPU fan would be blowing hot 48°C air at your CPU, and your CPU temp would eventually rise to match the 48°C

In order to establish which temp is which, just unplug your CPU fan.
It'll take 30 seonds to a minute before you can see one of those two temps starting to rise... it's a heat SINK, remember?
If the temp is going up too rapidly for your comfort, just yank the power cord from the back of your PSU.

No, that turns out to have been my system temp... I have my cpu fan ducted to the outside of the case. I did as u requested, stopping the fans, and my CPU temp started to rise while my Mobo Temp started to drop. Right now CPU temp is holding at 45. Is that socket temp or actual CPU diode temp? Thanks again Milt

I believe that it's socket temp, but I don't see anything that looks like a Thermistor in my socket.
If was the 'core' temp, via the internal diode, I'd expect it to be reading 15°C to 20°C higher

Well i won this mobo off eBay and when installed i was having the same problems as all of you.

1st. everything connected, i hit the power button and nothing happens, although the light on the motherboard is green. well i finally figured out that the power button has a wire associated with it that needed to be connected unto the motherboard (sw reset) once i connected the wire and hit the power button again the machine started booting.

2nd. Once it booted up, none of my drives could be found. A, C, D. After re-inserting the IDE cables over and over it finally was able to see my A, C, D.

3rd when restarted again and it attempted to boot off the C drive i was given options to start (safe mode, normal ) no matter what options i choose the computer restarts itself, so i changed the boot sequence and booted off the CDROM and when it's done loading all the needed files and it's just about to get into the windows repair the computer shuts off. why?

i changed the harddrive to primary master, cable select still same problems. i also tried booting off a win98 disk and when choosing d:i386\winnt.exe i get the error " internal error could not find a place for swap file."

power supply model PX 230W ATX.

The last line in your post above tells me you need a larger PSU.
My A7N266-VM will run on a top-quality 200 watt PSU, but just barely.

Try stripping it back essentials... one stick of memory, one HD, no case fans, no CDs, no floppys, and set CMOS for 100/100, all of this to reduce the load on your 230W PSU.

Or try a larger PSU.

Some details about the rest of your system would help.

Yep, you are correct. i changed the system bus to DRAM 100 / CPU 100 and now everything is stable. I will have to buy a 350W power supply and hopefully it fits my microATX case.

Thanks for the help.

Exactly which micro ATX case do you have? It's hard to find a quality 350W power supply for most micro cases. Check this out thourghly before you spend money.

well i have my eyes on antec 350W on newegg, but not sure on size, but current power supply is px-230W ATX

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=17-1...amp;DEPA=1

Case has no name on it
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b1.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b2.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b3.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b4.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b5.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b6.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b7.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b8.JPG
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b9.jpg
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b10.jpg
http://www.iownjoo.com/freeimghost/neop/b11.jpg

make sure you have the CPU inserted properly or the system wont even power up, also u should run the system on a bench outside of the case on a piece of foam with just the floppy and ram, and vid card.

The Antec 350W power supply has two fans. Unless your case mounts the power supply with top fan facing down, this top fan will be blocked by the top of your case. How about posting a picture of the back of the case so we can see how the power supply mounts. Try to figure out from the power supply picture on Newegg if the fan will be facing down when mounted in your case.