Hello everyone,

I have a memory problem.
So has my pc.

My system is a 2.2XP AMD running windows XP Pro with 512MB of PC3200 ram. I also have a GEForce4 Ti4600 graphics card.

I am not an overclocker and my system does what I need it to do. However because the price of ram has become so cheap I decided to buy an extra stick of 512MB.

My original memory is pc3200 DDR with a CL of 2.5.
My new memory is pc3200 DDR with a CL of 3.

I can get both sticks to work ok on their own but as soon as they both go in together the PC refuses to get to the login screen.

Any suggestions anyone?

Thanks in advance.
Ian

Have you tried the new stick of RAM in the first slot?

The slowest stick should go in the slot 0 and the other sticks of RAM will run on the same latency settings as that one.

Thanks for your reply.

Excuse my ignorance....

So a stick which has a cl of 3 is slower than a stick with a cl of 2.5?

Ian

Try this

Go in the BIOS and manually set the ram to 3.0 latency under "expert settings".

OCGW

Peace

Yes as wierd as it might sound but think of latency as a response time, the smaller the latency number the faster the RAM I hope that makes sense to you?

I recently got a Barton 2600 CPU. I'm trying to upgrade my Tbred B AIUHB 2100+ CPU, which I had running FLAWLESSLY at 13x171 (about 2223 mhz). So I put the Barton in, and upgraded my bios to F14 on my 7VAXP Rev 1.1, and it registered as a 2600+ (I had to DISABLE top performance though)

Now, the Barton is running at 1969mhz (171x11.5).... Am I stuck at this now? I've read the Lumberjack modded bios allows AGP/PCI devider changing, but honestly I don't understand what PLL/16, PLL/20, PLL/40, PLL/60 etc ... means? ???

I was hoping to put the clock switches to ON/ON and get 200FSB, but I'm chicken if the PCI is going to run at 40mhz, and corrupt my 2x120gb Raid 0.

Has anyone here successfully gotten 200mhz FSB from a 7VAXP? I'm reading conflicting stories.

LAST: Assuming I can not get 200mhz FSB with the proper AGP/PCI devider spec, and I'm stuck at the 171 FSB ceiling due to potential HD corruption (which has happend before while in 333fsb (166mhz) mode going up past 180mhz), will I get any better performance from the Barton running 1969mhz vs. my Tbred running at 2223mhz ?

ANY advice or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.

Hello Ian
Try setting your cas latency to 3 in the advanced section of the bios. Press Ctrl +F1 on the main bios menu to access this section.

You could also try setting the DRAM clock to 166mhz = DDR 333 in the Frequency / Voltage Control section of the Bios. This will force your Ram to run at 333 mhz.

I don't know how much DDR400 Ram this board supports.

Hope this helps.

Andy

Toaster Toaster.

Click on link 20 at the bottom of this web page and read the article posted by Adrian Jones on 30-5-2003. this explains the mysteries of the agp/pci multiplyer settings. (PLL)

Hope this helps.

Andy

Hello again,

I have tried the slower stick in the first slot, just the same.

I have set the ram to latency 3.0 in the BIOS and again it will not boot-up with both sticks present.

I have also set the DRAM clock to 166mhz = DDR 333 in the Frequency / Voltage Control section of the Bios and still nothing.

Does anyone know if this board will accept two sticks of RAM with different latency settings?

Maybe I'm trying to do the impossible.

I have registered the same question with Gigabyte support but they have not responded yet.

Thanks again.

Ian

Your answer is the biggest pain in the rear you'll ever have.

First... Let your computer stay on for sometime. When I was doing a cold boot, it refuse to boot properly.
But letting the computer run for awhile, it could reboot all it wants and not have a problem.

So I recommend letting it warm for about 30 minutes before you do the next step.

I don't overclock. I figure things are fast enough now days. Why take risk?

Regardless, you need to boost the voltage on your memory. Take it up to the next setting.
I've played with this and regardless of the rest of the settings, it was the only thing that worked for me.
I've fought with it for 2 months.

You might want to put the slower stick in the first memory slot like previously mentioned...
And let the motherboard do everything automatically for all the settings, and then change the memory voltage up. *You might have to go to the second setting. First one didn't work... Until I got 2 250 SATA Hard Drives hooked in. Then I could take it down a notch.*

If this doesn't work, sorry. Nothing else suggested worked for me so I'll know how you feel, but hopefully
this is what does the trick for you.

Wisc

Your answer is the biggest pain in the rear.

I screwed that up.

I was going to say your answer is simple...
But it sure wasn't simple to get. It was a big pain in the rear to figure out.

So I stopped in mid sentence and ...

Somehow I got the two sentences mixed into one.

My bad :o)

Sorry about that, finger slipped.....


Thanks for your reply. I will try what you suggest.

I have also just received a suggestion from Gigabyte support. They say that when you mix and match memory from different manufacturers you must disable 'top performance' in CMOS.

I will also try that, and report back.

Ian

i was just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem installing memory onto this board - i've had 512 333mhz of kingmax installed and running perfectly for a year, and decided to add another chip - this is where the troubles started - windows goes haywire whenever it boots up (just totally random errors, restarts, clears up when i take out the new memory). I origionall though it might be faulty memory, so swapped it for a new chip, same probs.
yet the new chip is from exactly the same people, the same size and speed (i'm assuming they revised the modules though cuz it looks different to the old module though)

memtest86 is telling me it's full of errors (both when the new chip is soly installed, and when both chips are installed, the old chip is passing with flying colours though)

am i missing something here, or do i actually have a second faulty chip??

specs:
athalon xp (barton) 2800+
DDR 512mb 333mhz kingmaz ram (plus the faulty one, exactly the same)
ati 9800pro
windows xp sp1
ga-7vaxp rev. 1.2 (f14 bios)


also; does anyone know exactly what the memory option; normal, fast and ultra actually do (currently on normal)

i've also tried turning off 'ultra performance', no luck (again, what does this actually do??)

Read through. This board is VERY popular for playing Elf on you when you put in more memory.

Whatever the case, if you continue to use the board with the new memory, your going to have to try the ungodly amount of advice written in this thread.

My way of getting it to work, was upping the voltage. *No I don't overclock.* Regardless of what you do, this board isn't doing it's job in managing the voltage properly.

Crank up the voltage. You shouldn't have to go past 2 settings. I had to go to the second setting. 1.65 I think it was? Who knows. Whatever the second one is. But after I got up and running I was able to back it off abit.

unreal, thanks for that

any idea as to a reccomended memory option though (normal, fast or ultra?)

also, (sorry about al the questions), what does the option 'spread spectrum modulated' do in the bios, and what is the ideal option for this? (enable, disable, auto)

To be honest, I couldn't really tell you about all that other stuff.
All I really know about memory is cheap memory is CAS 3.0
Decent running 2.5 and really kick rear memory is 2.0 *I believe refered to
as Low Latencey or something along that line*

I let the motherboard do the default, and then I manually shifted the memory voltage up
to get my 1.5 gigs working.

All 3 chips, the exact same. Infieon or however it's spelled.
DDR333...

I've also noticed having to do the same things on the Asus motherboards.
So I'm not so sure it's Gigabyte as much as it is the memory.

You want problem free, gotta get the expensive stuff. Like Cosair.

Sorry I'm not to informative, but I scoured the internet trying to figure out what was up.

The only fix I was able to work was boosting the voltage.

And I hate having to do that...

Hello everyone.

Yesterday I bought a XP3000+ 333MHz and I was hoping to run my mem @400 MHZ while running the CPU @333.....the problem is that nowhere in BIOS it lets me change the mem...it is marked with an X and says 333...........I don't understand.....before when having my old cpu xp2000+ @266 it was no problem running the mem @400...but I ran it @333 because it gave me the best performance. Now, a year later and 2 bios later I don't seem to be able to run the mem @400 with my new cpu.....does anyone have a barton running @333 (default) and the ram @400?
Worth mentioning is that my mem is a twinmos winbond pc3200 so it should be no problem. You would make me extremely happy if you responded to my thread
Cheers!

Here some hints for those, who spend hours like me trying to solve stability problems of GA-7VAXP.

My board was 100% stable with a 2400+, RAM @133, 166 or 200. But since I'm using a (brand new) 3000+ Barton @ FSB166 I had lots of sudden hangups like described before. Newest drivers, bios F13, 14, 15, 100s of different bios settings (also ctrl+F1) etc. etc. etc. did not help. Switching the CPU by jumper to FSB133 instead 166 solved the stability problems and was a helpful workaround.

Finally I unlocked the CPU by using the wire-trick and checked different multiplier @ FSB166 starting from 11 (2500+). Now I'm using 12.5 at FSB 166, which lets the board recognize the CPU as a 2800+. It's 100% stable now. After reading ~1/3 of this thread I decided, to waste no more time on chasing the missing 200+.

Inbetween once I had black screens when switching the Computer on; the board switched itself off after 4-5 seconds with only the fans running and no beeps. This problem was described before. I solved it by simply mounting the CPU-cooler once again. CPU temperature control seems to be quite sensitive.

System:
GA-7VAXP 1.1
1x 512 Samsung 3200
1x 512 CSX 2700
(checked single, both, bank 1, 2, 3, 133, 166, 200, ...: no influence.)
Gainward FX5900
2 x 20MB Maxtor
AMD 2400+ 133, AMD 3000+ 166 (now @2800+)
420W PSU; max. 20A on 12V
CPU temp 45 ... 65 deg.
System 40 ... 50 deg.
PSU ~ 55 deg.

---------------------

Dimitrios: simply forget about the 200MHz-RAM. Running CPU and RAM asynchronus leads to an additional peformance close to 0.

I have had all sorts of instabilities since upgrading to a Barton core. However, I finally figured out what the problem was. (After months of having horrible instability problems and replacing videocard and HD and RAM)I finally figured out that any BIOS past F9 Sucks! I had installed F11 right before I got the Barton processor. I installed F13 F14 and F15 even though they don't mention any instability problems just to see if they would fix it. Finally Went back to F9, Although my processor isn't detected as "Barton" and instead shows up as "Unknown" it at least works. I haven't had to reinstall Windows since changing back to F9, I plan on leaving it this way until I can get a nVidia nForce 4 with a Fancy 64-bit processor I am able to play games without my computer freezing. I don't get Checkdisk running after every boot.. no more BSODs I only wish I had gone back to F9 sooner
Bios updates can be found here: tw.giga-byte.com/Motherboard/Support/BIOS/BIOS_GA-7VAXP.htm
I used the Giga Byte @BIOS program.

I am using a rev 1.00 board Odd thing is that my Wife's Mobo (exactly the same revision) is rock solid with F14
Going back to F9 may our may not fix the problem that you are having but its worth a try.
Good Luck.

-Michael Morgan

The whole time with cranking up the voltage on my memory, I thought it was the problem.

The actual problem was using Aopen RO-27G wireless mouse USB... Putting it to PS2 with the USB 2 PS2 adaptor that came included with it stopped the blue screen IRQ_Not_Less_Or_Equal_to error...

Thanks to swapping motherboards, memory, and everything else under the sun... The final clue was being having 3 of these mice, needing the software installed to generate an unique ID for each one, after updating to SP2 on my moms computer, the software totally locked up her computer and gave the blue screen no matter how much you boosted the voltage on her memory. Then my computer started doing the same thing after a windows update *Gosh knows which one*... Refuse to boot properly even with 1 stick of memory in there.
I unplugged the mouse, it booted fine. Put back in the other 2 sticks of memory, it booted fine. Put the voltage at auto and for the first time in years, it booted without a hitch. I'm still working on what my emotions to this is... I almost gave up on the mouse all together when someone suggested I put it in PS2 with the adaptor. So far it seems to be working without a hitch, however I have a wireless microsoft mouse brand new in the box sitting right on my desk just in case.

Wouldn't be surprised if other USB Wireless mice gave the same problem. Recommend using Microsoft since they keep up on their stuff.

P.S. What's with all the spam in some of my previous messages? I wouldn't have gave it a second thought, or cared except I saw AOL as one for the Internet. *Shivers* I HATE AOL...