Im working on my newest case mod, made completly from Acrylic and i wanted to know if it glueing the panels together with either miters or butt joints is strong enough to not need screws in the joints. Has anyone tried this? Or will i need to use some screws to attach it?
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If you buy the acrilic sheets, then go to your local fish centre, (the places that like have all pumps/cases/fish) and all them things, and there they will sell some kind of glass/plastic waterproof adhesive.
I know you dont need it to be waterproof but its for building fishtanks (gluing panels together) im not sure if it is just glass but i think it will work on acrylic too. Only thing is though, since it is not glue, its more of a filler kind of stuff you will have a white/black/blue (whatever colour the fillier is u chose) around all the edge.
Or you could make your case like an industrial theme and get some large metal hinges (chrome) or some 90' bent steel, and drill through that and the sheet and but a big silver bolt through it. so it will look like a steel frame that is seethrough all the way round.
I built a custom acrylic case to host a full size mobo. I used butt joints since mitering the acrylic sheets would be too hard for me. I used a contact adhesive designed for plastics and so far after 6 months of heave travel the case has not had any problems.
I sand buffed the case, to make it translucent so the internal lights make the entire case glow, so one can't see the glue marks on the internal joints.
I cant remember the site, I'll look it up and repost. But you can buy acrylic cubes with 2 or 3 nuts inserted in them. By mounting these inside the case you could stealth mount screws to hold the case together without any glue. This would also help in taking the case apart.
The cleanest cement for acrylic / plexiglass is made from itself. Take scrap pieces of plexiglass and smash them as small as you can. Put them into an old Cool Whip (the redneck salad bowl) container (with lid!) and soak in about 1/2 cup of acetone for 24 hours.
The acetone should break down the plexiglass into a solution that you either brush or glue-syringe into joints. The acetone then evaporates, and the two pieces of plexiglass are bonded to each other by... plexiglass.
There is also a compound out in caulk-gun form for cementing safety glass (plexiglass) together... this is usually found in odd locations in hardware stores, or large automotive supply stores.
Also, if you want to clean up the edges and make them as translucent as gem-quality, use a propane torch to flame-temper the edge. Don't go wild and start melting everything, or searing the faces of the plexi panels... just temper the edges.
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Id use a clear silicone sealent, you can buy it in many colours and also a clear one.
Its strong enough to hold a sink(faucet) to a wall without support after its dried so should hold together your case.
Max , It may be two years later now , but Dude you rock, after reading your post, looked at a label- acetone and pvc resins for PVC pipe, so ergo acetone and dissolved plexiglas for tada plexiglas. Never thought of it, too simple. BTW, the pvc glue for gray pipe, worked very well, which also never crossed my pea brain too use.
I built a reservior for the water cooling system for my e6600. I can't believe how bad some of the designs are that are getting sold. I used a small butane torch to bend 3 corners to make a square leaving only 1 joint to glue instead of three. add top and bottom, some 1/4 in NPT threads. Too easy to ever pay for bad products in the local comp. shop.
Thing looks so fine, I'm still grinning. Thanks
Acrylic is a good material but I would go with Polycarbonate. It is 25 times stronger than arcylic, very durable material. It's what they use to make bulletproof glass. I usually buy it from http://hightechplastics.com/ Made some display cases and they came out great.