- Cherry MX Brown preferred but Blue or Black considered
- Other mfrs fine too, that's the only brand of mech switches I know
Media keys (Fn keys acceptable)
Standard layout - normal sized Backspace and Enter keys, backslash and pipe above Enter
PS/2 (adapter is fine) - I want NKRO
Good lord, try finding a ducky shine, even for $140 and they're out of stock. It's insane.
I think from a basic typing standpoint you'll be happy with the DKUS. It's a good touch-typist's keyboard, and if you get it for a reasonable price, that's even better. I tried one some time ago on an acquaintance's computer and it was great for power typing. Can definitely tell the difference between it and a typical $80-ish quality keyboard.
By the way, there's nothing wrong with using two keyboards; one for hard-core text entry, and another for general use or gaming.
I really liked those IBM mechanical keyboards and can appreciate the way a CNET editor's rather acerbic review covered the DKUS for the non-touch-typing masses.
The good: Mechanical key switches provide tactile feel and satisfying clack; N-key rollover allows for multiple key presses; blank keys add elite aesthetic appeal; built-in USB hub; sturdy build.
The bad: Expensive; lacks extra features.
The bottom line: The Das Keyboard Model S Ultimate Silent is aesthetically minimal and truly designed for typing purists and keyboard snobs who have no need for key labels.
As for foobar: Reason said:
...Foobar lets you map as desired anyway....
Speaking of foobar, is there a way (preferably easy) to NOT be running foobar as the audio player and still have its flexible keyboard re-mapping functionality? I've never used foobar so have zero experience with it.
I don't want to have to deal with backing-out a bunch of foobar's codecs I don't use (if that's even possible), deal with mass file-extension re-assignments, etc.
It feels good so far, this the first thing I've typed of any length.
The inscriptionless keycaps are intimidating. An Amazon reviewer said that he had put up a pic of a keyboard layout on his desktop for a cheatsheet, which I intend to do. I had to log in first. Good thing my PC password is easy to remember.
It really tests your touch typing skills.
Feels SOO much better than the Eclipse so far. Not to knock it too much, like I said, I had never liked the feel of it, so I don't think it was a lack of quality so much as incompatibility with my typing style.
John, almost all the stuff Foobar lets you map is media-related, so I'm not sure if that's what you're looking for. It's worth looking at. I found it fiddly to get to my liking, with one setting in particular giving me absolute fits, but I've been using it for a couple years now and it works for me. (Specifically, the default behavior of adding the entire current "library" selection to the current playlist makes creating custom playlists impossible. Preferences | Media Library | Library Viewer Selection Playlist unchecked. It's checked by default for reasons unfathomable to me.)
It sorts and allows searching of my 318 GB music catalog with no significant delay; the last player I used was choking on it and was crashing anyway. It also allows for a lot of flexibility and scripting power, and as with most "power" tools, can take a bit of getting used to.
I don't recall if codec/plugin installation was necessary; I believe it's not for almost all the major audio filetypes.
What is your end goal with mapping, and on the side, what media player do you currently use?
Damn this keyboard is smooth. I need to ease up and not hit the keys so hard, even though it feels like it can totally take it.
Looks like the "Package the resulting keyboard layouts for subsequent delivery and installation" option could work as a clunky per-profile option.
I use K-Lite Codec Pack with Media Player Classic for video, and Foobar for audio. I don't like having one player for both types.
Edit to add:
I do use almost all the keys on the keyboard. Frequently I find it much faster to navigate by keyboard (tab, shift tab, space to select, etc) and the Windows and Context Menu keys that seemingly no one uses are very useful to me. About the only ones I don't use with much frequency are Pause/Break and the Tilde, although even that one does get occasional use.
Anyway, my point is that, you might have uses for the keys depending on how the PC is used.
...The inscriptionless keycaps are intimidating. An Amazon reviewer said that he had put up a pic of a keyboard layout on his desktop for a cheatsheet, which I intend to do. I had to log in first. Good thing my PC password is easy to remember.
It really tests your touch typing skills...
You got to be kidding me, no key labels! And.. for $80 used, ~$150 when new!! Need a cheat sheet for key layouts, are you outta your mind!!! XD You are asking (and paying) for such hassle for yourself to suffer.
Typing purist, com'on man... I have a plain Jane PS2 keyboard that I bought for $10 bucks >10 years ago, very loud and clicky, feels better than most newer "low profile" keyboards nowadays. Now we are going backward, paying premiums for older technology...
This might seem kind of obvious, but I'll share it just the same.
By the way, over the years I've had several "cheapie" (yet still highly reliable) keyboards that the key legends on keycaps under my left hand started showing very noticeable wear in less than a year of use. The legends on these keycaps were the "painted" on type.
It's probably due to the unique way I hold my hand while typing and the fact that keyboard is used mostly for word-processing...other folks may see wear on different keys.
I stopped the wear dead in its tracks on all the affected keycaps by simply covering the ASDEC letters with an approx 7mm X 7mm square of CLEAR 'cellophane' tape (aka "Scotch"(TM) tape).
It's absolutely vital to use fresh and quality tape and it must be the clear tape...not the 'frosted' so-called 'invisible' type. It's also absolutely essential that the tape be no closer than about 0.5mm from any edge of the keytop, and of course the keycap must be clean of any contaminants before applying the tape. I cut the squares of tape using a virgin X-acto blade and applied the tape to the keycaps using tweezers to make sure no oils were transfered from my hands onto the tape, and to reduce the chance of trapping bubbles under the tape. I then 'buffed' the tape into the keycap.
One keyboard I've been using frequently for over 5 years has zero additional wear on those keycaps, and I haven't yet had to replace the tape on any keycaps on that keyboard (once I discovered to leave that >= 0.5mm gap between the edges of the tape and the keycaps, and to not use a 'bargain' brand of tape).
It may also be possible to use clear nail polish to protect the legends. Warning!...I'd test it first on an unimportant keycap, as the chemical solvent (e.g. acetone) used in some polishes may slightly "melt" the keycaps and/or the legends when first applied (I don't know if nail polish still contains such solvents or not, but if they do I'd bet keycaps made from cheaper plastics can be affected by it). I'd also bet that using nail polish will likely require re-applying it every now and then. If one has a problem with the tape fix, perhaps a coating of clear nail polish over the tape would help ensure the edges of the tape couldn't come up or the tape shift over time due to adhesive failure in some conditions.
Application note...it's possible that on some light-colored keycaps that over time there might be a noticeable outline around the tape (build-up of dust around the edge). This also might be eliminated by coating over the tape and the entire top of each respective keycap with clear nail polish.
Another application note...none of the keyboard keycaps I tried this on have the deeply sculpted "spherical" keytops found on some mostly older keyboards. The 'tape trick' might not work as well for those kinds of keycaps (see http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide#post_6009683 for more info on keytop shapes and other keycap information).
If you already have keycaps with significantly worn-off legends, you might try using 'dry-transer' (aka 'rub-on') letters/numbers...or maybe even printed-out letters from Dymo, Brother, etc labelmakers. The dry transfer kits are usually available at office supply and hobby stores, they aren't that expensive, and they come in different sizes and many colors (note: that might be of particular interest to gamers who might want to customize certain keys with letters that stand-out from the surrounding keys.)
After applying the new letters on a keycap, I'd try protecting them with either the 'Scotch'(TM) tape or clear nail polish as I described above. All warnings still apply.
I haven't tried that on actual computer keyboard keys, but I've had excellent success doing this on various regular 'on/off' electronic switch keycaps, project cases, etc.
Instead of tape or nail polish, I've also successfully used Krylon clear spray coating on some electronic assemblies (keycaps have to be removed from any switches first). Several light layers sprayed on over the lettering worked better than one thick coating. Warning! Spray-on coatings also often contain solvents, so one should pre-test and great care should be used while applying the coating to ensure it won't 'melt' any plastics or the lettering.
As you might see from the URL, it edits the registry for you, so A: might not be worth the DL if you're already comfortable in there and B: who knows how reliable that is, but as long as it doesn't hose anything, seems pretty good.
That MS KB layout creator seemed like it might be better though.
Thanks for the info. SharpKey does look interesting. I'll probably give it a try at the least to satisfy curiosity.
I've got no problem with registry manips as long as I can trust the program that does them to not insert spyware/malware. I've also often edited/manipulated registries myself, so it doesn't overwhelm. I've also got very rigorous backup protocols.
Reading the "SharpKeys" item on the overclockers forum there was a referral to a decent keyboard technical reference document. It covers a lot of good stuff to help one better understand keyboards. http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide
By the way, I'm pretty sure the overclock website "mechanical-keyboard-guide" is a webpage I'd been trying to find again after losing it. So, thanks for that, too.
I have a Rosewill RK9000 with cherry mx blues and i love the feel of the blues and the clickety clack sound they make.I only paid $79 shipped for mine but its normally $100.You got a great deal on that Das Reason.Nice find
I thought about the Rosewill but I was thinking I absolutely had to have backlighting. I figured if I'm going to spend a lot of money, I might as well spend it all to get everything I want. I had looked at the BlackWidows too but IIRC they only have KRO on the WASD, or something like that, which makes sense for gamers but to me is a limitation that I'm not willing to spend extra on.
I love the feel of it although I'm realizing how much I rely on visuals for passwords. Typing regular words is fine but when I have to enter the symbols and case sensitive stuff, it's more challenging than I anticipated. Still, only had it for four days now so I'll get used to it I figure. The last guy said he had it for 6 months, so maybe not, but I love the feel so much. I'm pretty much ruined for other keyboards now I think.