One of the users in my workplace described that the laptop said it was going in to hibernation. Since then she was unable to power it up.
I have since looked at it and it will not power up at all. When you press the power button you get a brief second or 2 where it sounds like it is going to boot and the green power light and the amber battery light come on, and then it just shuts back down again. This happens when the battery is in on its own. When you plug in the AC power adapter as well it does not do anything.
I have had a brief look inside and nothing looks to have a problem.
Can anyone please shed any light on this issue, could it be a motherboard power problem??
We do not want to particularly buy in new components that are not needed and would like to try and ascertain the problem first. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
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First remove all peripherals including USB devices. Can you get to the BIOS? Can you change the boot order to boot from the Windows CD? If not, then it probably is a hardware problem. It could be anything from power supply to motherboard to memory problems. The only way I know to troubleshoot that is to start replacing comonents, but that might not be worth it.
No cannot get any power to even boot to bios i am sure it is a hardware component failure, i am just trying to narrow down what it could be and whether it is worth trying to repair due to component costs.
I have had a problem identical to this with my Inspiron 1150. For several days I've been unable to get it to boot - also the charging light doesn't come on when plugged in to AC power.
The strange thing is that today I brought it into work with a view to getting the Desktop Support team to look at it. I plugged it into AC power, and lo and behold it worked. The battery appeared very flat, and I'm wondering whether when one of these batteries gets that flat, it maybe won't charge properly, unless given a couple of days off to recover. At any rate, I've ordered a new battery from Dell.
Can you let me know what the name of that part is that you are talking about. I'd like to buy one for my 1100 Dell inspiron. Or is there a part number that I can reference? I'm not sure what to search for when I am on ebay.
Thanks for the elaborate email. I hope you are still checking this thread. My friend just dropped off an Inspiron 1100 with similar problems. The machine has a dead battery for years (its 5 years old). However, up till last night he was able to use it with the power pack plugged in. Now, when he plugs it in the battery light just blinks amber or sometimes green. When I try to turn the power on sometimes it will stop the blinking battery light. When I hold down the power button it will either make the battery light turn on or off as long as I have the power button pressed. With the power cable unplugged I could tell that pressing the power button will turn on the power light on very briefly (battery does not have enough charge to carry out any activity).
Do you think it still be worthwhile for me to do what you described? I tried taking the bottom screws off to take the machine apart but to no avail. Not sure what else to do. Appreciate the help if you could shed some light on this.
I have a Dell inspiron 1100 that does that exact thing or it will just have a constant yellow battery light after pressing the power button..And must pull out battery and insert back in to
get that light to go out and for the power button to work again. otherwise it is like froze and does nothing. Except display a constant yellow light. or simply just shuts down real fast with normal light operation.
But,I can get my Dell to boot everytime with out a hitch if I press and hold pressure on the bottom of the laptop just above where the memory dimm [ A ] would be seated.. like there is a short in the board in that area. because replacing memory did nothing. must press and keep firm pressure in that area while pressing the power button.
Then it turns on and functions normaly. and even stays that way for a few more power on sessions. then I have to repeat to get it to power back on again.
I just bought one and had a new power plug put in and all the lights do is blink dim .The thing will not try to power up at all .Any thing I can do? Does the mother board sound like its toats? Now when I plug a monitor in the light get bright just for a couple min .
Can't thank you guys enough for sharing this info. 100% on, opened the very DEAD Dell Inspiron 1100 laptop, ripped out the V1 reed and the laptop is back in business in less than 45 minutes. Very cool. Proof...google everything!!!! and do not be afraid to open them up...nothing magical going on.
Hi all, I had the problem as stated in the earlier post, so screwdiver in hand proceeding to solve the reed switch (U1) problem. Removed the offending switch, no change?? opened it up again, disconnected mousepad assembly, still having the startup problems??? please if someone could help as the laptop as lots of things on we need....Please
>>Subject: NON-destructive way to test and possibly fix the magnetic reed switch
Well, since the thread was updated, I'll toss in my 2-cents worth.
Instead of opening up the laptop and removing the reed switch you may be able to EASILY and non-destructively test if this is the problem cause by simply using a reasonably strong neodymium/rare-earth magnet placed directly onto the location where the lid's magnet would normally position itself.
You may even be able to provide an easy low-cost temporary fix if the reed switch or the magnet is the problem.
There are a couple reasons for this:
WARNING! Be careful where and how you place any strong magnets near your computer equipment, CRT displays, media, etc. Strong magnetic fields can corrupt data or damage/magnetize some hardware to the point of making it unusable.
The Lid Magnet Itself
1) rare-earth magnets CAN significantly oxidize and the magnetic field strength deteriorate over time; even over as little as 6 months if the magnet's protection from the air is compromised (either the magnet's nickel plating (if plated) fails or the polymer sealant if used instead of nickel plating the magnet (cheap bastards)). BTW, I've seen small commercially available nickel-plated rare-earth magnets literally crumble to a fine powder in about a year, while the nickel-plating surrounding the (former) magnet held its rectangular shape.
I had 350 neodymium nickel-plated magnets for a business venture from the SAME purchase order and under the SAME storage conditions where a large percentage of them oxidized and lost substantial strength within a year or two, yet others remained intact and were at basically "full" strength 10 years later. (yes, I have a calibrated magnetic field strength tester). And remember, that deterioration happened while they were sitting undisturbed (until I checked them) in storage in their original shipping containers. I've now opened all the magnets from that order so can't add any more years to that.
From appearances, the failed magnets mostly still looked pristine to the naked eye. But they were virtually non-magnetic. The cause of failure was microscopic cracks in the nickel plating that allowed air to contact the magnet material that caused massive oxidation. Such invisible cracks can be easily caused by mishandling during manufacture of the rare-earth magnets or assembly of the laptop lid. For example, if a strong rare-earth magnet is allowed to "clack" together with another magnet or a hard surface from just a couple of inches away, the brittle nickel-plating can be micro-fractured. SOME of them (after being stored) were obviously (to the naked eye) affected where the plating had "peeled" away from the original cracks had been. In even fewer, the magnet appeared to have "collapsed" in on itself....just pieces of the nickel plating and dark powder remained. It should be noted that ALL the magnets had passed initial visual (under 4X magnification) and field strength tests when first received from the manufacturer.
Even mere fractional oxidation of the magnet inside the plating can result in major weakening of the magnetic field of rare-earth magnets. And, it doesn't take much loss of magnetic field strength for proximity sensors (like magnetic reed switches) to fail.
2) the magnetic reed switch magnetic fields can similarly change strength (both ways). Using a magnet stronger than the original magnet, or bringing a magnet closer to the reed switch than the original magnet assembly can come, AND physically "flipping" the polarity of the magnet a few times can often overcome such changes and cause the switch to change state between open and closed like it should. SOMETIMES this even results in the reed switch subsequently operating properly with the original unchanged magnet assembly. I've seen this work on burglar alarm reed switches quite a few times. However, it is an indicator the switch should be replaced in the very near future as it should now be considered unreliable.