did you increase any voltages to get your 3.6ghz OC ? increasing voltage can and will increase heat output.... when you OC, you want to try to get as much without increasing. You will hit a point where you cant go any further and this is where you need to increase voltage to either be stable or get a few more hz.
maybe its the voltage... I just left it at [auto] since I dont really understand at what number to start... I know the max and the min voltages supported by the chip, but i dont really know a good number for my OC.
How much voltage should i put into the CPU???
The only voltage I messed with was the DRAM -> 1.64
And im using "SpeedFan" to read temps
Asus P6X58D motherboard
GeForce GTX 260
Intel i7-920 @ 3.4GHz
6GB DDR3 Corsair cas7 memory
Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Xtrememusic
Thermaltake Kandalf Black case
Try Everest for temps to make sure Speedfan isn't messed up. No one can really tell you the exact voltages to use for your system, every system is different. On the otherhand, the best way to start overclocking I find is to review some reviews and ask some people with similar configurations and start there. For example, read reviews on the i7-920 to see what they got it up to and at what volts. It will take a while to get it how you want it(fast and stable).
I assume you've already tried setting the clock/voltage values on all devices back to "normal"?
If you did that and the temp still remained excessively high, then most probably either the chip has been damaged, the heatsink is not properly applied (or something has changed in the cooling subsystem),
If you used one temp monitoring program to check the temps before you overclocked/overvoltaged and are using the SAME program afterwards, then it's likely not the monitoring program that is at issue. But, it never hurts to double-check with an independent resource.
By the way, every system monitoring program I've tried (including speedfan, Everest, MBM, etc) has the potential to mis-identify the temperature reports, sometimes confusing ambient temp sensor for CPU temp sensor, or CPU case sensor v. CPU die sensor(s), and so on. It depends on the system/motherboard. In this case, single-purpose program might be best (e.g. CPU-only monitoring program).
edit to remove ref to CBID. Doesn't support that CPU family.
edit to add: RealTemp Intel CPU Temperature Reporting Program http://majorgeeks.com/RealTemp_d6098.html http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp
Requires: Win 2000/03/08/XP/Vista/7
"Real Temp is a temperature monitoring program designed for all Intel single Core, Dual Core, Quad Core and Core i7 processors. Each core on these processors has a digital thermal sensor (DTS) that reports temperature data relative to TJMax which is the safe maximum operating core temperature for the CPU. As your CPU heats up, your Distance to TJMax will decrease. If it reaches zero, your processor will start to thermal throttle or slow down so maximizing your distance away from TJMax will help your computer run at full speed and more reliably too."
(I've found RealTemp does NOT appear to support Celerons regardless of claim "all Intel single-core" processors, but of course that doesn't apply here. Just adding the note in case others with Celerons might want to try the program)
(One reason I like freeware versions of RealTemp (and Speedfan) is that AFIK unlike the freeware version of Everest (and some other monitoring programs) these programs allow the user to calibrate the temperature reports. I've found some temps are not accurately consistently reported. Probably the most extreme examples I've found are both a Western Digital and Maxtor harddrive that overreport the actual temperature by 9degC! That makes a big difference when I setup alarms and such. With calibration and entering appropriate offsets I get a more accurate real-time reading in the temperature range most encountered in a given system.)
edit to add:
Sebastian Rivas said:
I just overclocked a little bit my i7 920 from 2.66 to 3.2GHz....
Um, 2.66 to 3.2GHz is not "a little bit". IMO that's pretty much a whopping huge leap.
added comment about RealTemp allowing user to calibrate temp reports
If you haven't been doing so, it's a good idea to run extensive CPU and memory tests after changing the settings either up or down...make sure the system is stable at the new settings.
The best way to do it is with a self-booting medium that contains diagnostics so that your OS/data aren't put at risk if something hiccups while running under Windows. Plus, you can test the CPU and memory more thoroughly if Windows isn't running.
2.66 to 3.2Ghz is a fairly light overclock for a Core i7 920.
This should be doable without even increasing voltages at all.
First thing though, take of the CPU cooler, and thoroughly clean the CPU heatspreader & base of the heatsink.
Re-apply thermal paste (only use a little, it will spread itself thin when the cooler is placed on top), and replace the cooler, ensuring it is seated correctly.
One thing I must stress is NEVER leave CPU voltage at 'auto' if you are manually overclocking. The board/BIOS may induce an overly high voltage required for the speed bump.
The standard voltage for an i7 920 is 1.2V (core). You can set it to this manually, then simply increase the bclk (base clock) to achieve your overclock. Most 920's I've seen get to 3.4-3.5Ghz WITHOUT an increase in processor core voltage.
**Edit to add
Also ensure that your CPU fan is set to increase speed as temperature rises, say 60% at 40 degrees C, and 70-80% at 50C.
Follow what they have done there for your overclock *
* you may or may not achieve the same overclock as they have achieved, but they do at least explain about the voltages / clock speeds that need to be / can be altered to achieve a stable, and safe overclock.
So this would be my first port of call - go into BIOS, and manually set core voltage to default (1.2V), NOT 'auto'.
Lancool PC K62
Phenom II x3 @ 3.5Ghz
ASUS GTX570 DirectCU II
What are the temperatures of your other parts in the system? Motherboard, Videocard, Harddrive...etc. They could be making an impact on everything else. How many fans are in your case and what case is it? Which way are the fans blowing? Explain this.
That's probably right for mobo/cpu temps. Some mobos measure nb/sb and with crappy cooling and crapp airflow those can run at a lot higher temps than the cpu with a big fat hsf slapped on it
nvm, yeah if those temps are right after playing a game, than it looks cpu and mobo temps are swapped because kandalf has decent enough airflow for the mobo to stay cool, and there is no way the cpu could drop to 36 degrees that quickly after full loading in a game.