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  gigabyte 880g problem 
 Date Written 
pele butcher Jan 26, 2011, 04:56pm EST Report Abuse
after buying the motherboard i assembled it with an amd athlon IIx3 processor and 4gb 1333mhz ddr3 ram. i startup the system and there is no bios display or POST or beeping. the fan on the motherboard is spinning but looks to be spinning at half the speed it should. on the board there is an 8 pin atx connector but on my 500w psu there is only a 4 pin connector which i am using on it. the power on light at the front flashes instead of staying on and the other fans seem to be working.
2GB Mushkin enhanced PC3 10666
ZOTAC nvidia GTS 450 1GB
Octigen 500W PSU

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john albrich Jan 26, 2011, 08:15pm EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem

Two observations:

1) Not even showing the POST (Power On Self Test) screen often indicates either faulty/incompatible RAM, mis-seated or failed video card, or faulty CPU.

2) I've never used that CPU, but it's possible you need to find an adapter that lets you supply additional power to the remaining 4 pins of the 8-pin CPU power socket.

I'd also remove the video card while you're debugging the system, and use the integrated motherboard HD4250 video. If removing the video card solves the problem, it may be indicating your PSU can't handle the power requirements.

You can try to see if it's memory by testing each of the 2GB RAM sticks one at a time. See this post for procedure details.
Note: My comment in that post regarding NOT passing POST, does NOT apply in your situation. So go ahead and try that memory debugging procedure. That comment was addressing RAM electrical compatibility in that person's system. At this time I don't believe that's a problem on the GA880 with either of those RAM sticks, but I'll do more research.

added item about removing the video card to debug
added comment regarding not passing POST re: post 77351/#588954

pele butcher Jan 26, 2011, 08:24pm EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem
i already checked the ram removed the graphics card and use the onboard graphics and still no display i will buy an 8 pin adapter and see if its the power

john albrich Jan 26, 2011, 08:32pm EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem

Please either provide EXACT model numbers/details re: your RAM sticks, or verify that the Mushkin RAM and the PNY RAM you have, can use the SAME voltage (e.g. 1.5V) and if you had it setup for "ganged" operation in the GA880 BIOS Settings menu (default is "unganged"), the timings must also be compatible.

For example, I searched on the Mushkin RAM parameters you provided and noticed that some models work with 1.65V while others used 1.5V, and I couldn't adequately define the search on the PNY RAM based on the parameters you provided.

Note also that if you are trying to overclock the RAM, that both sticks MUST be installed in specific sockets. See my comment on this in my GA880 "Initial Impressions" thread.

edit to add:
I was composing this while you posted your statement about having tested the RAM sticks. IF you tested them individually, then this shouldn't be an issue now.

john albrich Jan 26, 2011, 08:58pm EST Report Abuse
>> Basic System POST Debug Preparation
BTW, the simplest configuration just to see if you can get to the POST screen, all you need are:

Standard System Debug (Minimum Configuration to display POST on screen)
1 display adapter
. . (if mobo has integrated video use it and remove all display adapter cards)
CPU (+heatsink and fan, of course)
1 stick RAM
AC power cord
display cable
display cable adapter(s) if needed
power-on button and cable/connector

You do not need anything else installed to initiate POST. This minimizes the chance that something else is failed and complicating the problem, or "shorted", or drawing too much power for some reason. Yes...the keyboard, mouse, and hard drive were intentionally left off this minimalized list. They generally are not needed by the computer to start displaying POST on the display. And, don't forget that if you have a front panel card reader, etc. you should also initially disconnect those from the motherboard headers during these tests (keep notes on what they connect to and how they connect (e.g. polarity)). They also can cause problems while debugging.

It you don't see the POST screen at least begin to display with that minimum configuration within about 15 seconds of power-on, then you know the problem is almost certainly one of those listed items. Of course, it's possibly due to a simultaneous failure of more than 1 of those items but it's less likely.

And of course it's also possible it's not due to an outright failed part, but due to the way the part is installed, a compatibility issue (especially with a new part(s), overloaded PSU, PSU set to wrong voltage, bad AC power from the wall outlet (either not present or out of spec), etc. For example, a given motherboard may not support a specific CPU or RAM module. The motherboard manufacturer usually supplies a list of supported/tested CPUs and RAM modules, indicating manufacturer, part number, size (e.g. 2GB), speed, etc. You also have to make sure you haven't installed too much RAM (e.g. 32GB total RAM in a motherboard that only supports 8GB total), or you have an 8GB RAM module when the motherboard only supports up to 4GB RAM modules (e.g. even if the board supports 16GB total RAM, that doesn't mean it supports individual 8GB modules), or RAM installed any modules in the wrong slots (e.g. you have 1 RAM module and installed it in slot "A1" instead of the required "A2". (note: these are example RAM sizes and slot names only: different motherboards have different individual RAM module size restrictions and slot v. RAM module placement requirements depending on the number, speed, and type of modules), etc.)

It may also be necessary to reset/clear the CMOS/BIOS in between each and every test. DAMAGE WARNING!!! In the case of some motherboards, you MUST be sure to follow the CMOS clearing procedure EXACTLY as described in the manual. Otherwise, in some designs if you do not follow the manufacturer's CMOS clearing procedure EXACTLY, you can permanently damage the motherboard. For example on some motherboards, if you do not remove AC power completely from the PSU (either via the AC mains plug or the PSU's rear switch (not the front panel "power" button)) before clearing the CMOS you WILL DAMAGE the motherboard.

When handling parts in or out of the system, make sure you follow proper 100% power removal and ESD protocols or parts can be damaged.

For info on details on isolating just between PSU, motherboard, and CPU+heatsink, see

itemized the cables and possible adapters as well...just to be they can fail too
clarified and improved wording consistency
change Subject to be more descriptive
edit to add 20110703:
If you have "unlocked" additional CPU cores, then "re-lock" them and go back to the default CPU configuration for the basic debugging and/or installation attempt. Same thing for any "overclock" settings of ALL hardware (e.g. CPU, RAM, Video, Southbridge, PCI, etc.)
edit 20111128
Provided a bit more emphasis on key items
edit 20120811
-Added keyphrase Standard System Debug to this post for HWA search purposes
-Added more info re: manufacturer restrictions on component compatibility and placement
-Added reference to

pele butcher Feb 08, 2011, 04:22pm EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem
the 4pin to 8 pin adapter did not work so i am assuming i need a more powerful power supply for it to power up. since the parts are pretty much brand new i think this psu should suffice.

Meats_Of_Evil Feb 08, 2011, 08:25pm EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem
The 12v rails and the wattage indicate that it is more than enough to run your PC. But I don't see the brand name in that eBay page. It is best that you buy a reliable brand than one of those generic ones, especially for a component as important as the PSU.

I suggest:


Those are very good brands imo.

Everything I write is Sarcasm.
john albrich Feb 08, 2011, 10:34pm EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem

Agreed. The PSU is definitely not the component to look for the lowest price. Definitely also check out any technical website AND user reviews of the PSU you are considering purchasing before you spend the money. Extremely cheap PSUs are generally not a bargain...they put your hardware and data at risk.

You can often find high-quality moderate power PSUs on sale + rebate for under $40. I recently saw a Corsair 600W for $39 after sale + rebate.

The problem of course is you have to be patient and keep an eye on special sales (like the Newegg email promos and "shellshocker" deals) and they may not occur just when you need one.

edit to add:
BTW, I've never had any problem with any Corsair rebate...whether it's was for a PSU, RAM, etc. Same for OCZ products.

Dublin_Gunner Feb 09, 2011, 08:13am EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem
Personally I'd remove OCZ from that list, as their newer supplies have really gone down in quality.

But in general, Corsair, Thermaltake, Coolermaster, Antec, Seasonic, XFX, Enermax & Fortron (FSP).

If the unit is ANY other brand, I would personally steer clear. (there are a few high end units made by different companies, but they are generally not that easy to find, so I'll exclude them here, and include only the most popular retail manufacturers).

If you're looking for a budget PSU, the Corsair 'Builder Series' CX430/500/600 are cheap, and the 430 even comes recommended form JonnyGuru.;reid=214

Lancool PC K62
Phenom II x3 @ 3.5Ghz
4GB DDR2-800
john albrich Feb 09, 2011, 08:44am EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem
I tend to agree. My own recent experience with a PSU was very disappointing. They charged me shipping to RMA due to what was a design/manufacturing defect that apparently caused widespread catastrophic failures in one (possibly 2) model for awhile.

I was more fortunate than some in that I followed a rigorous data backup protocol on that system.

To my knowledge they never issued a recall but did modify the PSU.

The replacement PSU I received works fine so far (going on 15 months). As far as I'm concerned they blew the way they handled the problem.

They won't get my business nor recommendation for purchase again.

But the rebate process worked fine.

updated that the replacement PSU is still working 15 months later

Dublin_Gunner Feb 09, 2011, 09:14am EST Report Abuse
>> Re: gigabyte 880g problem
Its funny though, as their older units were excellent. I own an OCZ GameXtreme 650, and its a quality unit.

The unit is really a re-badged FSP, so I suppose it makes sense.

Their Z series are good PSU's however, but not for the budget minded. We could also throw tagan into the mix, who usually use Topower units, but I read a review recently where they used an Impervio design. Both manufacturers are pretty excellent.

Removed link, doesn't appear to be updated that often

Lancool PC K62
Phenom II x3 @ 3.5Ghz
4GB DDR2-800



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